Полтора евро на улице Одиночества

В испанский городок Арчена я поехала, разумеется, не только за рецептом чесночного соуса. Еще я там плавала в лимонах. Неожиданно приятное занятие оказалось!

Но — по порядку. Арчена (а это примерно в 20 километрах от Мурсии, на юго-востоке Испании — южнее Аликанте и восточнее Гранады) специализируется на релаксе еще с древнеримских времен. Развалины античных терм видны прямо из современного термального комплекса Balneario de Archena. Сейчас у меня из окна уже московский снег видно да голые деревья. А там на Новый год +18, и на деревьях растут апельсины размером примерно с солнце на январском небе в Москве.

Плавать среди лимонов и гулять среди апельсиновых деревьев мне понравилось. Фото: balneariosyspas.info

Плавать среди лимонов и гулять среди апельсиновых деревьев мне понравилось. Фото: balneariosyspas.info

Да, и лимоны. Бассейн похож по форме на жидкие часы с картин Дали. Где-нибудь в Таиланде или на Бали в нем бы плавали тропические цветы. А тут — лимоны! Нормальные нашенские лимоны, ярко-желтые, с упругой толстой кожицей. Целые, а не кружочки, как в чае. Из-под воды бьют гейзеры, сверху льется то ли тропический дождь, то ли водопад, и потому лимонный прибой случается в самых неожиданных местах – то у одного бортика, то у другого.

А вот чем можно усугубить релакс в термальном бассейне.

А вот чем можно усугубить релакс в термальном бассейне.

Я понимаю, что владельцам термального комплекса это практически ничего не стоило. Там вокруг не то что лимоны растут — лес просто фантасмагорический: гигантские пальмы, каких я не видела ни в Индии, ни в Малайзии — и тут же сосны, агавы — и оливковые деревья… Цена вопроса, кстати, — 850 евро за десять дней, включая не только бассейн с лимонами, но и множество других гидромассажно-банных радостей.

В баре термального комплекса бокал вина из соседнего винодельческого региона Хумилья (Jumilla — сайт на русском языке) стоит аж целый один евро и пять центов. У нас вина из Хумильи не так известны, как, скажем, риоха. Но тем интереснее было приобщиться и к этой стороне жизни в Арчене.

Первый мой выход в деревенский свет увенчался бокалом хумильи с аппетитным салатом в качестве тапас в баре прямо напротив мэрии. Полтора евро.

А рядом с главной площадью обнаружилась улица Одиночества — Calle Soledad. Не пойму, что заставило испанцев придумать такое название? Они ведь даже в самый приятный бар ни за что не зайдут, если там никого нет. А вот если к стойке не подойти и весь пол завален мятыми салфетками и прочим мусором — тогда да, тогда это хорошее место, раз там столько народу. И тут вдруг улица Одиночества прямо в центре города…

Хотя и в альмодоваровском фильме “Возвращение” сестру Пенелопы Крус звали Соледад, помните? Да, чего-то я еще не понимаю в загадочной испанской душе. Пойду открою хумилью, что ли.

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