Ферран Адриа.
Я теперь не знаю, кого люблю больше: Икера Касильяса, Хавьера Бардема или Феррана Адриа. Касильяс красив. Бардем — мачо. Адриа — гений.
Объективно гастрономическая гениальность Адриа подтверждена давно: его ресторан El Bulli пять лет был лучшим в мире, его признали самым влиятельным шеф-поваром планеты и пригласили в Гарвард — учить вовсе не кулинарии, а эффективности творческих процессов. Плюс три звезды Мишлена.
Но. Феррана Адриа надо видеть и слышать. Сидеть близко и смотреть в глаза. Там у него такая … не знаю, что… искра? энергия? та самая гениальность? — какую я видела, кажется, только у Тура Хейердала (да, с норвежским путешественником у меня было одно из первых в жизни интервью. Горжусь!).
Впрочем, хватит моих эмоций. Лучше — слова Феррана Адриа, который на днях приезжал в Москву, открывать Дни испанской кухни. Каталонский шеф-повар — посол туристического бренда “Испания”. Как и Касильяс, кстати, вместо со всей сборной чемпионов мира.
— Мы живем в тот момент, когда в мире гастрономии происходят очень большие перемены. Когда я только начинал работать, в 1980-х (Адриа сейчас 49 лет. — Ю.), цель была одна: хорошо накормить людей. Разве что Франция тогда рассматривала гастрономию как часть туризма, ну может еще Италия немножко.
Сейчас все изменилось. Кухня имеет огромную социальную ценность. Вот я, скажем, фанат футбола. И считаю, что футбол — почти религия 21 века. Но. В России, думаю, примерно 10 % населения имеют гастрономический подход к жизни. Что это значит? Если вы собрались выпить чашечку кофе, вы постараетесь, чтобы это был хороший кофе. Если пошли за хлебом, купите лучший хлеб, в меру своих финансовых возможностей. В Испании таких людей примерно 15 % из 47-миллионного населения. 7 миллионов! Даже самый невероятный матч между “Барселоной” и “Реал Мадрид” не соберет 7 миллионов болельщиков.
Поэтому я и говорю, что кухня — огромная культурная ценность Испании. Люди в мою родную Барселону приезжают потому, что знают: мало того, что город чудесный, так там еще и поесть хорошо можно.
У Испании невероятная гастрономическая история. Во-первых, тысячелетнее присутствие арабов на Пиренеях. Вот на Канарских островах арабов не было, и в результате тамошняя кухня абсолютно не похожа на испанскую (напишу скоро про Канары. — Ю.) И еще мы открыли Америку! А это в итоге просто перевернуло всю европейскую кухню. Не думаю, что о какой-то другой стране в мире можно сказать то же самое.
Дальше Ферран Адриа продолжит воспевать испанскую кухню и расскажет, что думает о кухне русской.
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